We left home at 11:30 but, as I'd forgotten my thermal vest, had to return after five miles. A very wise decision as it turned out. Left home for the second time at 11:50. After getting lost near Liverpool, arrived at the farm where we were leaving the car at 13:25. Jane was already there so Mr. Elliot took us straight to the airport. We flew easyJet, which left at 16:30, just half an hour late. Arrived at Geneva Cointrin 19:05 local time. It was very warm, 23C. Short train trip into the town and then walk to the YH. We'd prebooked and paid, but an extra SFr8.00 gave us a room for four between the three of us. Went to a pavement café for a meal and then for a wander along the lakeside.
Thunder storm and heavy rain in the night. Had breakfast (included in the price) and then back to the station to catch the train. Tickets bought via the Internet and posted to us. We changed at Lausanne and Martigny, where we caught the Mont Blanc Express(!) to Chamonix. We could have caught a bus from Geneva Airport (French side) to Chamonix more cheaply, but the Mont Blanc Express was a fantastic ride. Steep, lots of switch backs and breathtaking scenery, especially when it was looming out of the mist and rain. On arrival at Chamonix, we made for the Tourist Information Office to discover that it closed from12:30 to 14:00. It was now 12:35, the weather had brightened and we were keen to start the walk. In retrospect both Alan and I would have liked to look around Chamonix for an hour or so before starting. We were lucky, as we did see bits of Mont Blanc in the gaps in the clouds. The book directions were excellent and we soon arrived at the pretty village of Les Praz with it's little church and views of the hills. The pleasant river walk became less pleasant as the weather deteriorated, the rain became gradually heavier and heavier and the views totally disappeared. About and hour from Argentière we were adopted by a friendly dog, who accompanied us the rest of the way, despite efforts to discourage him. Le Belvedere was shut and no notice to say when it was opening, which was a bit of a blow as it was now pouring and we had nowhere else in mind to stay. Found the Tourist Information which was just being opened, 15:30, with extreme force as the lock had jammed. The lady phoned Le Belvedere but no answer. She then directed us to Agence Schuss Immobilier where with lots of hand waving and a mixture of French and English we explained what we wanted. We were offered one double and one single adjoining rooms with a shower and toilet and use of a kitchen. Great, except Jane fused the electricity by turning on the cooker, so we were without lights, and kitchen. Still, the shower was hot, we could go out to eat dinner and do without a hot drink at breakfast. Meanwhile the rain continued unabated. We dashed out for a meal, FFr90.00, fixed price. The vegetarian menu included trout but at least it provided other things I could eat. The rain increased, thunder and lightening increased. What would tomorrow bring?
The rain stopped at about 06:00 but it was still damp when we ventured out to forage for bread, cheese and fruit for breakfast and lunch. The surrounding hills were covered with fresh snow and it all looked very pretty but there was the nagging thought, "What would the conditions on Col de Balme be like?".
The walk through the woods to Le Tour was free of snow but naturally quite damp underfoot. However the sun was shining so what more could we want? The path remained snow free but increasingly edged with snow as far as the Charamillon cable station but from here on the covering became greater and deeper and quite slippery in places. Despite seeing a few people on the way, I was unprepared for the crowd at the Col de Balme. The sky was now a brilliant blue and the snow sparkling, a magic sort of day. The three of us decided that we would have tea, coffee and chocolate, thus we had an excuse to sit on the hut's seats. The guardian was reluctant to take French francs but did and then gave us the change in Swiss francs, which were worth more than we had originally given her! Variations in French, German and English could not convince her so we bought another round. We must have stayed for nearly an hour enjoying the views and the comings and goings of other people.
When we eventually dragged ourselves away we had take care as it was slippery until well below the snow line and then we entered the mist. The forest paths were quite steep and it was a relief to reach the pasture by the Nant Noir stream. We sat here again just to enjoy the atmosphere before following the road through strawberry fields (empty) to Trient.
We had decided that we would try Le Café Moret for a place to stay. We had a very nice room with three beds and a communal shower and toilet. We had asked for demi-pension and were offered fondu. We agreed, not knowing that it was all we would get, not even a lettuce leaf extra.
After showering, we went to look for the shop, which was part of Relais du Mont Blanc and opened at 17:00. Coffee was in order while we waited. Apparently they had fondu on the menu that evening also!
Short climb up to the bisse path and then a level walk along to Chalet du Glacier (closed). We saw a group of three people but they turned off at the Chalet as we continued upwards. This was a long, steep, zig zagging climb on to ground increasingly covered with snow. The glacier was very dirty looking and we had plenty of time to study it as it was in sight most of the way, unlike the Fenêtre d'Arpette, which was a well kept secret until you were nearly there. The last part was quite a scramble, up over icy rocks and slippery snow made worse by the number of people we were suddenly mixing with. They included a group from the South Wales Police and an Exodus group, both of whom we were to see again in various places. Of course, at the top were people who had come from the other side as it is a variant of the Tour of Mont Blanc. Alan and I sat out of the wind, warm enough for t-shirts and shorts, and watched the groups gradually go and for a short time we had the col to ourselves, worth the wait. However, Jane was waiting below so, after lunch, pack up, a quick scramble down to the boulder field, across that and then we were below the snow line. A saunter along pastures amongst fruit trees to the farms. The sky was now becoming overcast and a few drops of rain fell. We were nearly at Relais d'Arpette and, as we had a short day tomorrow, we thought we would see if we could stay here and save ourselves a soaking. Demi -pension in a petit dortoir for four between the three of us. This time the meal was soup, salad, chicken curry (fried egg for me) with rice and ice cream. A much more substantial meal than the previous night.
A quick walk into Champex along another bisse, where we saw purple Winter Crocus flowers. I had never seen them growing wild before and we were to see them again later in the day and on a few other days. The Tourist Information Office was open so bought a local 1:40,000 map and guide just because we like maps. The 1:50,000 we had was quite adequate. The man was very chatty and his English was excellent. He spent some time explaining the difference between asking for "une carte" and "la carte" which, unfortunately, we forgot again! What he didn't tell us was that the Cabane du Mont Fort was still undergoing renovation and was only taking a few people who had pre-booked. He might not have known. Later, we saw some of the South Wales Police who did. Bought the usual bread/crackers, cheese, tomatoes and fruit for lunches at the shop. The walk continued along the shore of the lake, which was quite inviting, but not enough for Jane to jump in. It was still fairly early, cold and in a town. It was then downhill all the way to Sembrancher. Saw the Exodus group again. They were to get public transport from there to Les Ruinettes as they couldn't get into the Cabane du Mont Fort. Alan asked for"potage et frites" in a café for his lunch as he felt he needed the extra energy. The staff were very worried about this bizarre combination and had to be convinced that this was what he really wanted. It seemed to work, as he went like a rocket later in the day. I had a coffee while Jane looked for a post office. We then tried to decide what were our options for the next day given the potential accomodation problems. Decision, continue to walk to Le Châble, find the Tourist Information Office and get them to phone Cabane du Mont Fort to try to sort something out.
A very gentle walk to Le Châble through meadows with lots of flowers and a slow worm. South Wales Police again, this time to say that Les Ruinettes the overflow for the Cabane du Mont Fort was full for tomorrow night, the night we wanted! Bush telegraph is a great. On to the Tourist I nformation Office. It was closed. Quick decision to get the bus up the hill to Verbier where there was another, hopefully open. It was, and the lady spoke excellent English and was very helpful. She told us that the weather forecast for tomorrow was OK but it would deteriorate and snow and high winds were expected. She soon booked us into Les Ruinettes for tonight and the Cabane de Prafleuri for tomorrow. We opted not to hang about but to get the cable car to Les Ruinettes. All this removed a stage from our schedule. A quick shop, as we were uncertain if there would be a meal for tonight and we would certainly need lunches for a couple of days, then we were on way to the cable station. We had a dortoir for six with an adjacent shower to ourselves, so plenty of space. They did do meals so we decided on demi-pension again. The vegetarian option was spaghetti au natural but the soup and salad were enough for me. Exodus caught up with us here and the leader warned us that the walk next day would take ten/eleven hours. We were expecting to take eight/nine.
Opted for a quick get away and we left about 07:30, ahead of Exodus! The views were good, especially to Grand Combin, but the path was boring, a dirt track for much of the way. We went right up to the Cabane de Mont Fort and looked at the views from there, they were overwhelming. The sunsets are supposed to be spectacular but as it was misty last night we hadn't missed much! As we were leaving, Exodus appeared but we waved them goodbye as we were parting company here for a while. The path, winding around the side of hill was supposed to be sign posted "Tour du Val de Bagnes et Combin"; it wasn't, but it was quite clear which way to go. Once we were over a boulder field, it was quite easy, if a little exposed in places. There was evidence of the path having been recently repaired and a few fixed chains. The main problem was the view, Grand Combin in front, Val de Bagnes below and Dents du Midi behind. It was tempting not to look at the path at all. We saw a couple of ibex and they even waited while we took photos. A short scramble up and over the Col Termin and then we were walking back along the other side of the hill towards Col de Louvie. There were patches of soft snow lying on the path which were rather slippery and it was a long way down to where the Lac de Louvie was gleaming in the sunlight. Just before Col de Louvie, we stopped and had lunch and sat for a while in the sun, which was very warm out of the wind. A lone woman walker passed us on her way to Col Termin. Col de Louvie was covered in snow and it became quite tricky descending between and over the snow covered boulders. The Grand Désert was very bleak, with the grey rocks and a grey-blue glacial tarn. Beautiful in an odd inhospitable way, but not a place at which one would want to stay for long. Passed some of the South Wales Police at the outflow of the glacial spout and we continued to be passed and re-pass them all the way to the hut. The climb to Col de Prafleuri seemed interminable. At first it was easy, over boulders and a long level bit then a descent, where we noticed that it was getting colder so stopped to put on trousers etc.There was a short tricky climb down a snow filled chimney and, with a few people around now it was interesting to note how different people tackled it. Another up and then down a barren mountain bowl with the path dipping below the hut so a final climb up was necessary. The cabin was new, with lots of pine every where. We had a six bed room which we shared with Nigel and Richard (SWP). Drawbacks were we had to buy "jetons" at SFr3.00 each for a shower and for the electric light in the bedroom. Showers yes, light no. Also no hangers or hooks in the room. The meal was good again. Soup, salad, rice and meat loaf, special vegetables for me, then pineapple. Strong winds and heavy snow in the night.
Still snowing at 06:30 so, over breakfast, we decided to go straight down to the Lac de Dix and not over the col as it would be safer! After kitting up in all our winter gear, we left and then changed our minds and opted for the col as the weather was clearing slightly. Took a compass baring on the col before leaving the cabin just to be safe and we also had the GPS as a backup. There were no real problems and we reached the Col des Roux quite quickly, considering the conditions and the snow covered way marks. It was the same for most of the way down, but getting clearer all the time so by the time we reached La Barma we could remove our cagoules etc. Strolled along the lakeside in the sun to the suspension bridge at the end. The short steel staircase up to the path was a nasty shock to the system after the stroll. The path was quite well graded and so the ascent was quite easy. Before we reached the snow line again there were masses of deep blue gentian but no edelweiss. Above the snow line and across more boulders the path was again difficult to see as the markings were covered. I found that I was trying to guess where I would put one and then make for that point and see if I could uncover one! The Mont Blanc de Cheilon was always ahead if us and never seemed to get any nearer. The book warned us that the gully up to the Col de Riedmatten could be snow filled and difficult, but the alternative of the ladders at the Pas de Chèvres did not appeal to us and we were now used to snow! It was actually quite easy. The descent was quite slippery on the melting snow but again, below the snow line, there was no problem. Strolled into Arolla at about 16:00. We had already agreed that we would try to have a single and a double room for a treat here. Alan and I decided on demi-pension but Jane opted to buy some food and wine from the little shop to eat in her room. There was a slight problem with my meal as they were of the school that vegetarians eat fish and my main course was salmon, however they very quickly made me an omelette instead. Alan was given chicken and rice with the usual soup, salad and dessert to go around it.
It was luxury to have our own shower, big hotel towels and electric light as well as a double bed!
Snowed again in the night so all the surrounding hills were snow covered. As it was a short day we had a leisurely breakfast and trip to the PTT to post all the post cards we had written last night. Jane had phoned ahead to the dortoir in La Sage as we had been told by Janet and John that it was closed but would open if we pre-booked. There would be breakfast but no evening meal as the café was also closed. We then went shopping for lunches and our evening meal. We also managed to get two 1:25,000 maps and more APS films, as we were running short. The two little shops were very good. We finally left the village at about 10:00. The walk to Lac Bleu was not the easy stroll we had expected as all the snow, although pretty on the trees, made the path slippery, especially where the tree roots straddled it.. Lac Bleu was a disappointment; it was blue but not very big. The farmer at Louche didn't have any milk to sell us and we forgot to ask about cheese. This was just as well as John bought some later and gave at least half to us as it was too heavy to carry and they would never eat it all. Slightly lower down, in La Gouille, we stopped at a little café for tea and coffee but then Alan saw someone with sausage (two) and chips (lots) and decided it was lunch time. He really enjoyed them. It was very pleasant sitting in the café, which was owned by a Belgian. Good path into Les Haudères, through a very deep gorge, which was interesting. Sat in the sun and waited for the shop to open to buy ice creams. This definitely was becoming more like a holiday. Eventually wandered up to Le Sage where we sat in the sun outside the Café Restaurant L' Ecureuil until Janet and John arrived and phoned the owner to say we had all arrived. As there was no one else there we spread out and had plenty of room. The owner left our breakfasts all organised, including flasks of hot water. The showers were hot as were all the radiators, after we switched them on. This meant that all the washing dried. Good not to put on a damp shirt in the morning.
Bright sunshine and a heavy frost when we left at 08:00. Janet and John had already gone but we were to see them on and off through the day. No problems in finding the way to Le Tsaté and then onto Remointse du Tsaté. Here the book directions didn't seem to tie up with the landscape, but the weather was clear and we knew where the col was so Alan and I just headed up, while Jane preferred to go around. We met on the col in beautiful sunshine and decided to sit a while and admire the view. I quickly became fidgety so started to scramble up higher on one side. I soon got very cold, as there was a chill wind blowing and, as my rucsac was down with Alan, I thought I had better turn around and go back down. The other side of the col was steep but not difficult. We could see our final objective, the Cabine du Moiry, perched on the opposite side of the valley above the glacier and a very steep path leading up to it. We could see Parking du Glacier long before we got there, as the path wound downwards around the hillside. The Moiry glacier looked almost close enough to touch as we walked along the lateral moraine and then onto the steep zigzag path up to the cabin. The path was not difficult, more like interesting as there were patches of ice and snow. There were some chains and a set of fixed ropes. The ropes were more of a hindrance than help as it was quite easy to get entangled in them. There was a niggling worry about tomorrow's descent, but that could wait until tomorrow. The hut was typical of the older style; wooden with large dormitories. It wasn't very full so we shared a sixteen-bedded room between we three and Janet and John. Plenty of room but it might have been warmer with a few more bodies, as we slept with our clothes on and four blankets and were still cold. The outside washrooms and toilets were frozen solid. The bread was delivered by manpower and a rucsac. Snow was melted for cooking, but they could have used beer as there seemed plenty of bottles around. The meal was good; soup, rosti, vegetables, sausage/fried egg and tinned pear.
We were advised to wait until 09:00 before attempting the path down. I'm not sure why as the sun wouldn't reach it to melt the ice until mid afternoon. We did as we were told and just looked at the view. It was a beautiful day and the glacier was sparkling and blue. The path down wasn't as bad as expected provided one was very careful. We then followed the path above the Lac de Moiry, along part of the Haut Tour du Lac, which followed the 2,500m contour. Towards the end of the lake we sat a while in the sun which was really warm and it was difficult to remember how cold we'd been the previous night. Looking back, it was easy to understand.
Alan was having a very bad day so Jane went on and we followed slowly. We didn't see her again until we arrived in Zinal! The col was not one of the more interesting ones and the tops of the hills were covered in cloud so the "incredible panorama" was missing. A lot of ski development on the way down made the way easy. We stopped for coffee at the cable station and then followed the path down through the forest. Lots of marmots were heard and we even saw a few. Jane met us as we crossed the bridge into Zinal; she had already booked a room for three at the Hotel le Trift. Nice room with two wash basins and next to the shower. The food was excellent!
We had asked for a late breakfast as we had decided that short day would be a good idea, so we were only to go to Hotel Weisshorn. On realising that we would be doing most of the climbing anyway we opted to go to Gruben. So, by the time we paid, shopped and got much needed money from an ATM it was 09:35. We met Janet returning as she wasn't well and was going to get a bus and meet up with John at a later date. The climb up through the forest was easy underfoot, although quite steep in places. Saw the Exodus group at the Barnevza Alpage and again later. There was lying snow just below Forcletta but not enough to make the going difficult. It was very windy at the col and overcast so we did not stay long. On the way down we walked through pastureland where we saw lots of rabbits and some lovely looking sheep. Of course there were thistles and cowpats as well. The descent through the trees to Gruben was not a hard on the knees as some have been. We checked into the Restaurent Waldesruh which, now we were in German speaking Switzerland, was a matratzenlager. This had two rooms with sixteen beds each, an outside toilet and an outside shower on the floor below. We were the only ones there so, again, plenty of room. We opted not to eat there and went to the Hotel Schwarzhorn for a meal. We met with Exodus again, as they were staying there, and also John who had good news of Janet.
Poured with rain all night, but by the time we started walking it was down to slight drizzle. We climbed steadily through larch and pine woods on an easy path with long zigzags. The drizzle turned to rain and, as we climbed higher, to snow, obliterating most of the red and white route markings. It was reassuring that Alan had plotted some way points into the GPS the previous night, although the way was clear enough just using a compass. We reached the Augstbordpass at 11:30, very good timing considering the conditions. The view was non existent. Perhaps we will go back some time just to see it, as it is supposed to be a landscape of "austere beauty". I had also harboured a secret plan of diverting to climb the Schwarzhorn, but there was no point and I couldn't expect Alan and Jane to hang about and wait for me in the prevailing conditions. Picking our way down through the snow was much more tricky than the climbing up had been. The snow was now quite heavy and it followed us all the way down to Jugen. We we gave up taking photos and the cameras were all packed away to keep them dry. Again, the views were supposed to be some of the best of the trip but we didn't see any. We found the hotel at Jugen and the owner apologised for not having any food to serve us but was more than happy for us to buy drinks and eat our own food. We made an awful mess on her floor as our snow covering melted but we had brushed off as much as we could. The Exodus group now appeared and as we had dried off we thought it was time for us to go. It was still raining slightly but the weather was obviously improving so there was now pressure to get a move on. It eventually stopped raining and we could remove our cagoules etc. We saw our first black and white goats. We arrived in St. Niklaus about 16:30 and called at the Tourist Information Office which boasted twenty-four hour service. Alan and I went to the Pension Walliserkeller as recommended (and owned, we later discovered) by the man in the TI while Jane tried to change her flight to travel home on Sunday, 16.09.01. We had already decided on the luxury of two rooms if possible. It was, and we had our own showers. The barman was Swedish with beautiful English, so my carefully prepared speech about rooms and vegetarian food was not needed.
We had previously decided that the one-day valley walk was to be our option, rather than the planned two-day Europaweg, as the weather was supposed to deteriorate later today, tomorrow was to be awful and Alan was still very tired. However, as we set out the sun was shining and the sky was a beautiful blue. No change of mind though. The walk as far as the land slip before Randa was pleasant but the diversion on to the main road appeared to be quite dangerous. I expect it was because we were just not used to traffic. The Tourist InformationI in Randa was closed; we had intended to phone the Zermatt YH to book as we thought Saturday night might be a problem if we left it. As we were crossing the road by the railway a train from Zermatt passed and Nigel, South Wales Police, was hanging out of the window. Frantic waving all round. We passed a golf club with a croquet lawn and then stopped to have our lunch at a local picnic spot by a lake. We really had wound down. Perhaps because it was very flat and just like a saunter along a towpath next to the river. At Täsch we took the "Panorama Weg" which was rather more up and down and frequented by mountain bikes. We raced along now eager to catch the first sighting of the Matterhorn, then suddenly around a corner, there it was. Impressive. The last part of the path was through a quarry and behind the helipad, not scenic, but we had finished, we were in Zermatt. We bought an icecream to celebrate and the "Herald Tribune"to catch up with the grim events of which we'd been totally unaware. Jane bought her train ticket for tomorrow and then, as we had nearly an hour to wait for the bus, we took a taxi to the YH and waited for it to open.
We were at the front of the queue to book in. I had to book three people for tonight and then, as we were two days early and Jane wasn't staying, change the original internet booking from three people for two nights to two people for three nights. Fortunately the warden's English was much better than my German and we managed it all relatively painlessly until I threw the usual spanner in the works by saying I was a vegetarian. Had an eight bunk dorm between we three and another couple. There was a beautiful view of the Matterhorn from the window. After sorting ourselves out Jane and I wandered down town to see how long it would take for her to get to the station in the morning, while Alan had a shower and a doze. Slight problem with my meal as it included ham, so discretely binned it. Decided that I would stick to the salad only for the rest of our stay.
Said goodbye to Jane at 07:30, as she left to go home. We still had three days holiday. The mist was was down. Went into Zermatt after breakfast to look for a "walking map" and to get some food for lunch. Plenty of shops open, just not the ones we wanted. We had a 1:25,000 map of Zermatt anyway. Back to the hostel and packed light rucsacs. The mist was now rising so, ever the optimists, we took the funicular up to Gornergrat. Still very misty but there were patches when it was lifting, swirling around and then closing in again. The temperature was -3C so we went for a coffee to warm up and to decide what to do next. Took the cable car to Stockhorn, two stops above Gornergrat, and now snowing lightly. Alighted, sole passengers and no sign of anyone else, and the cable car man showed us where the path was as it wasn't too clear amongst the rocks. From Stockhorn to Hohtälli was one of the most scary walks Alan had ever done, so he confessed later. We got as far as the closed cable station at Rote Nase, where we couldn't see the path, either where we were or where it went. Our situation felt very exposed, the snow was quite heavy and at one point Alan had five points of contact with the ground and they were all moving above a 300m drop! We managed to scramble up onto the station, where everything was locked, and at the other side of the concrete base we found the path again. Apart from another heart-stopping moment we arrived at Hohtälli without too many problems, except that we knew that the cable cars had stopped running and that we wanted to abandon the walk and make an ignominious retreat back to Gornergrat. Fortunately, there was a man there and the cars was running on demand. Walked into the restaurant in Gornergrat a bit like snowmen, and were stared at by the other patrons. Alan had some food and we celebrated our safe return with half a bottle of wine each! Down on the funicular and back in the YH by 17:00.
Mist and damp again with fresh snow to rooftop level. A visit to the Alpine museum would be a good start to the day. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, as it was very interesting. A coffee and a read of the papers followed. Then lots of cable car rides as we played the tourists and saw the sights, including the ice grotto inside Klein Matterhorn! Beautiful sunshine but very cold. Sight seeing is much harder work than walking. Took lots of photos and I bought a post card which identified all the peaks for future reference. Back at the YH just before the snow started again.
Bought our train tickets for tomorrow and the paper. Then, single tickets for the Sunnegga express (underground funicular) and cable cars to Rothorn via Blauhorn. Had lunch at the Rothorn café and then walked back down to Zermatt via Blauherd, Grindjisee, below Leisee and Findeln. More coffee and icecream at Findeln. It was really a very pleasant way to spend the last day of our holiday. Except at the top, where it was below zero, it was pleasantly warm all day. There were quite a few people and lots of marmots.
We left the hostel at 07:30 and caught the 08:10 train to Visp. It was strange to be rushing down the valley that we had slowly walked up a few days ago. Changed trains at Visp for the train to Geneva Airport and just sat back and enjoyed the scenery and the smooth running.
Arrived about 11:30 with plenty of time for our flight at 14:30. It was delayed, as were all the flights. We took off at 17:00 and no further problems. Landed, collected baggage, collected car and drove home, arriving about 20:45. Holiday all over.
Travel: We flew easyJet from Liverpool to Geneva then train from Geneva to Chamonix via Lausanne and Martigny. We returned by train from Zermatt to Geneva via Visp.
Distance walked: About 180 kilometres.
Time taken: 12 days from Chamonix to Zermatt.
Total ascent: 10,767 metres.
Total descent: 11,704 metres.
Boots: We both wore our Scarpa Manta M4s. Neither of us suffered more than minor foot problems.
Packs: Alan used an eleven year old Karrimor Alpiniste 45. I used my thirteen year old Berghaus L40 with the addition of two external pockets.
Guide Book: "Chamonix-Zermatt 'The Walker's Haute Route'", Kev Reynolds, Cicerone, ISBN 1-85284-327-6.
Maps: Carte Nationale de la Suisse/Landeskarte der Schweiz 1:50,000, sheets 5003 and 5006 cover the whole route. As our original intention had been to walk the Europaweg from Gasenried to Zermatt, we also bought the 1:25,000 sheets 1308, 1328 and 1348.
Cameras: Alan used a Minolta Vectis S1 with a 25-150mm zoom. I have a Canon Ixus Z70 with a 23-69mm zoom. Film was Kodak Ultra APS, 200 ASA. We returned with about 450 prints.